AMIRI Autumn/ Winter 22 Womenswear

Feminine and established, Mike Amiri builds character through volume. Outlined by AMIRI’s ubiquitous utility silhouettes, the collection focuses on dynamic shapes and an elevated attitude; recognized by defined, oversized outerwear, relaxed body and wide-leg, cargo flare.

A palette of neutral and earthy tones defines the collection – alabaster, beige, brown, and sage – accented by a season-specific camo print. This tonal color spectrum assembles across a complex textural canvas that bridges the hardy and technical with the soft and sensual: nylon, treated denim, ripstop camo, Terry cotton and shearling find ease alongside jersey, felt wool, boucle and silk.

A duality of spirit shakes up perceptions through notions of hybridization as materials are spliced together to create new identities: French Terry with washed and veined denim, and Italian leather with cotton jersey – recalibrating traditional garment construction through conceptual distortion. Structured high Sherpa collars are formed with wire engineering as this season’s signifier, offering sculptural versatility that wraps the neck and alters the silhouette with a subtle movement or strap.

Outerwear is key: the practical utilitarianism of heritage overcoats is deconstructed and softened, taking on a robe-like quality when drawn in collarless kimono shapes and rendered in tactile shaved shearling, while a trench is built with all-over downs quilting, inflating the garment with the properties of a puffer jacket. Observing similar notes of contemporary craft, stitching is removed from a puffer jacket to create a cocooning effect that swathes the torso, and the proportions of the traditional M65 jacket are adapted in denim with sharp shoulders and a cinched drawstring waist that echoes corsetry.

Applying AMIRI’s singular tailoring techniques to everyday garments, everything is elevated. Tapered sweatpants are cut with the precision of suiting, pleated trousers are designed to reflect motion and activity, and twill moleskin cargo pants are juxtaposed with technical nylon. At the base of each look, fitted tank tops rendered in soft leather become new archetypes with precise rigour.

Meticulous knitwear construction is showcased through hand-woven jumpers formed of patchwork weave patterns – creating a custom camo effect that promotes ideas of DIY craft through artisanal execution.

Tailoring itself is subverted, undone, redone and reworked in lightweight wool or soft French Terry to exaggerated double-breasted proportions. Aligning with AMIRI’s West Coast design codes, this season’s suiting encourages the eclectic notion of mixing tailoring with non-traditional elements to create a contemporary formality – worn as elegant eveningwear by night; paired with leather cargo pants or hand-distressed bootcut denim by day.

Signature shoulder bags, clutches and pouches reflect the collection’s character, craft and versatility in soft and supple manifestations – some also in decoration; laser-cut paisley patterns and trademark bandana detailing wrapped around handles. Eyewear is pitch black against gold hardware, while nude-toned sock booties punctuate looks with pointed definition and the house’s classic Stadium Sneakers offer a more casual stance,

Intuitive in the art of utility, the Autumn-Winter 22 AMIRI woman modernizes tradition, forging new classics.