LA GIOIA by Pomellato
Pomellato’s LA GIOIA brings a breath of fresh air to the world of high jewellery. Divided into two chapters, LA GIOIA unleashes a new creative freedom as it breaks from the constraints of time and puts sustainable practices at the heart of each jewel.
In the first chapter, Pomellato creates one-of-a-kind pieces using beloved jewels from its own archive to make exciting new designs with elements of past collections.
The second chapter offers a resolutely contemporary, high jewellery take on the house’s rich history of iconic chains and sautoirs.
In this unprecedented dialogue between the past, present and future, Pomellato rethinks the conventions of high jewellery with these bold, spectacular designs and strong commitment to the future and the Pomellato legacy.
AN UNPRECEDENTED PROCESS
Like falling in love again or re-discovering the joy of a forgotten bracelet or the familiar ripples of a perfectly balanced necklace on the skin, LA GIOIA’s dual approach celebrates a return to life of jewels from the past as well as re-working the simple chain into truly innovative high jewellery. The new collection is a first in the history of 21st century jewellery. Never before has a luxury brand dreamed or dared to incorporate original vintage elements and pieces of jewellery from their past into a contemporary collection or re-imagined the chain, a jewellery staple, elevating it to such a striking high jewellery form.
“I am very proud of LA GIOIA!” declares Sabina Belli, Pomellato CEO. “The idea of re-loving and including iconic pieces from our past in LA GIOIA reflects Pomellato’s values and the Kering Group’s commitment to sustainable development. There is continuity in this collection, a desire to bring sustainability to the world of luxury goods that also allows us to reinvent ourselves both as artisans and designers.”
THE SPIRIT OF THE COLLECTION
“Travelling and learning about different cultures has always been a major source of inspiration for our jewellery collections.” says Vincenzo Castaldo, Creative Director at Pomellato. “During this unusual time, for LA GIOIA, I undertook an introspective journey into Pomellato’s history and soul. It was a deeply personal voyage into the treasures of our past. This collection came together in a fun, spontaneous way. It was wonderful to find such a seamless interaction and natural harmony between pieces from Pomellato’s past and present.”
The dramatic, timeless and immediately recognisable LA GIOIA collection is composed of two chapters that epitomise the spirit of Pomellato high jewellery.
In Chapter 1, LA GIOIA continues Pomellato’s commitment to sustainability. Combining vintage jewels from the Pomellato archive, the unique pieces mix and juxtapose classic Pomellato heritage elements resulting in a visionary interpretation of high jewellery. Each piece is a contemporary retelling of cherished Pomellato stories.
“The idea of this chapter of LA GIOIA Collection originated in a conversation with American artist and designer Sheva Fruitman” said Vincenzo Castaldo. “We were discussing sustainable development in the luxury industry, and she suggested using vintage jewellery to create new designs for our new collection. We thought it was a very interesting idea, and that marked the beginning of this chapter in Pomellato’s history, consisting of designing with archive pieces and stones preserved from past collections. I used these elements from our past as fragments of our memory, then anchored them in the present.”
Whether the elements were born in the past and reworked into a new jewel or freshly created in 2021, the LA GIOIA high jewellery collection comes together with surprising coherence.
LA GIOIA not only embodies both Pomellato’s creative spirit but also its commitment to sustainable development. This is confirmed in the use of responsible gold, local production and the innovative recycling and repurposing of existing jewels. Like all Pomellato’s jewels, LA GIOIA was made on site, in the Casa Pomellato ateliers in Milan, where one hundred artisans work to make each and every collection by hand.
LA GIOIA - Chapter I
LA GIOIA starts its journey with eleven one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery that integrate iconic Pomellato legacy jewels from 1990 to 2014 crafting them into new creations. Pendants, earrings, chains and rings are repurposed to bring new life to high jewellery.
Bavarole TRITTICO
Pomellato’s first crosses date back to 1984, but this is the first time that three iconic designs are integrated into a single neo-baroque necklace. A gold and garnet Byzantine cross from 1993 is flanked by two rose gold and jet crosses from 2003 and 2013, the latter delicately engraved. Gold bracelets from 2004 form the chain from which the 2007 Harem collection gold and rock crystal pendants are suspended adding a joyful energy to this creation.
Bavarole MELODY OF CHAINS
This remarkable necklace features an array of signature Pomellato gold chains in various forms from different decades (2006, 2011, 2013) and collections. Their skilled assembly reveals the jeweller’s mastery of chains, central to Pomellato’s designs since 1967. The chains overlap one another to spectacular effect. On the left the links are suspended from a gold safety pin from 1994.
On the right, a contemporary Kintsugi stone made of jet and gold highlights another Pomellato collection about reuse and sustainability. These details mark the singular style of this piece encompassing decades of Pomellato design and heritage.
Sautoir CHINESE SHADOW
Jet beads as black as night, delicate brown diamond charms in rose gold and a dazzling tassel – available in a playful range of colours - are the three unique elements from the early 2000’s that find new life in this long elegant sautoir.
In the same spirit, delicately carved jade drops are transformed into sophisticated earrings whose green colour is enhanced by a verdant emerald pavé.
T-Chain HAIKU TURQUOISE
A Japanese coin-shape carved from a vibrant turquoise is at the heart of this stunning piece of jewellery. By transforming the blue gem into an asymmetrical closure, the necklace exudes an ancient power enhanced by the addition of a T-bar clasp in jet. Yellow and rose gold elements from the 1996 Moneta Giapponese collection and the 2008 Victoria collection are complemented by two coin-shapes set with a diamond pavé that add soft warmth to the jewel.
Rivière VENEZIA
Pomellato’s passion for colour is expressed in this design, which offers a unifying harmony of pastel gemstones from the 2009 Arabesque necklace and the Pin Up earrings from 2006. The combination of smoky quartz, prasiolite, amethysts and rock crystal transforms this neoclassical-inspired necklace into a precious, sophisticated jewel.
In the same spirit, the 2006 Eva cameo earrings with a snake motif are paired with blue topazes. Their timeless appeal comes from the contrast between opaque, organic material and transparent gems, exquisitely juxtaposed in this design.
Bavarole LUCKY STARS
This bold, glamorous Étoiles [Stars] necklace is a constellation of five jet and diamond stars made in 2014 that shine out from gold Capri chains with black ceramic and blue sapphire details. The clasp set with shimmering white and brown diamonds from the 2005 Echo collection is added into the mix for a sensual touch.
The same star motif, this time in a pavé of moonstones, topaz and baroque pearls from the Sirene collection, appear on earrings sure to light up the red carpet.
T-BAR BRACELET
The flat and rounded-square links of the graphic Pattern Two necklace originally created in 2002 add suppleness to this chunky Double bracelet. The jewel is enhanced by the addition of a large faceted jet cabochon, which in its former life was a pendant from the Victoria collection and now the focal point of this ultra-contemporary design.
Along the same lines, a vintage rose gold gourmette bracelet set with diamonds is transformed into a Victorian brooch, brought up to the moment by a beautifully carved jet ring from a study carried out in Pomellato’s atelier in 2007.
La Gioia - Chapter II
Since 1967, when Pomellato was founded, chains and links have been one of the house’s signature designs and used in hundreds of ways, a testimony to the jeweller’s passion for the simple gold chain. For the second part of LA GIOIA collection, Pomellato declares its love for the chain in three different designs: Contemporary Links, Princess Chains and Absolute Chains.
CONTEMPORARY LINKS
Pomellato, master of the art of chain making, plays with volumes in the Y-Chain necklace featuring geometrically disparate links. This highly desirable and sophisticated design is sensual with an oversized link set on both sides with white and brown diamonds that sits gracefully against the skin. The Y-chain is an easy-to-wear, versatile jewel that can be worn with a dinner jacket or jeans.
The Tassel Tie Chain, a long open sautoir popular in the Roaring Twenties, is given a contemporary, rock'n’roll update. The chain has weighty oval-shaped links made of white and rose gold that culminate in two tassels of delicate gold chains dotted with white diamonds.
This Lock Chain necklace transcends the barriers between genders and generations with a strong, masculine design, made up of fluid, feminine links and a working padlock set with diamonds. This bold design could be seen as a reflection of modern-day love. Randomly alternating links of yellow and white gold held together by a padlock that offers multiple ways to secure the jewel.
The equestrian world has inspired the rose gold links in the sumptuous Fantina Chain sautoir with three chains draped one below the other, all connected to an off-centre, oversized, elongated pear-shaped link set with diamonds. The diamond-covered clasp is echoed in a pair of elliptical earrings: two perfectly proportioned pavé oval links, one with white diamonds and the other with brown diamonds.
PRINCESS CHAINS
When Pomellato combines large, colourful stones with its famous gold chains, the result is a stunning line up of neo-Renaissance necklaces. The Red Tourmaline Chain necklace is composed of rose gold links with a pavé of sparkling brown diamonds, offset by a stunning 58.5-carat raspberry tourmaline pendant. The matching rose gold earrings are supple and flattering. They are adorned with cherry tourmalines in tear-drop shapes.
The white gold Tanzanite Chain is composed of links set with a dazzling pavé of 2,300 white diamonds and a spectacular 48-carat tanzanite pendant in a rare cabochon cut. This necklace gives a regal air to its wearer, who can gaze at her own reflection in the stone’s deep blue waters mixed with violet reflections. It took more than 700 hours of work to create this unique piece.
An eye-catching 76.66-carat red rubellite appears to float in the air at the centre of the Rubellite Chain choker. The design’s minimalist lines of two overlapping rose gold chains, showcase the dazzling cabochon-cut stone surrounded by diamonds. This bold piece with a medieval air could have come straight out of an illuminated manuscript.
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All images: Courtesy of Pomellato
