dunhill Spring Summer 2023: IN MOVEMENT

An examination of masculinity and its evolution to the erudite Englishness dunhill is known for, runs through this collection. There has always been a knowing confidence to the dunhill character - they obsess today's evolution through the lens of yesterday's knowledge.

Formal tailoring, that has previously been seen as restrictive, is disrupted, loosened, separated. Classic solhouettes are evolved in hyper-lightweight, innovative materials. Movement and fluidity are key.

Inspired by a dunhill archive piece, this season's Umbrella Coat - a heavyweight full waterproofing experimentation from the 1900s - is recut in an ultralightweight treated wool silk, which has both water - and crease-resistant properties. More than simply technique, there is symbolism here. Inspired by the past yet designed to be lived with - and in - today.

Boxier shapes in structured leather allow the wearer to move and breathe. Lightweight silk merino knits are layered under leather utility jackets, car coats and sharply cut bomber shapes. All staples of the dunhill wardrobe since the birth of the House.

Weston's palette for SS23 is muted and simultaneously decadent. Light greys merge into off-white, shot through with golden ochre and off-dyed lilac. Blacks, browns and tan, inspired by aspirational car interiors, offer a feeling of sensuality. Beige, sand and summer camel tones are reminiscent of languid summer days.

Further research into dunhill's heritage inspires a new leather good shape - introducing the 1893 Harness.

A multi-strapped, multi-use tote in full-grain, supple leather, the capacious 1893 Harness is inspired by dunhill's history in making leather goods for horse drawn carriages. Beautifully crafted, with elegant hardware and an elevated, utilitarian feel, the SS23 silhouette launches a new House family.

This season the codes are clear. The tension between traditional and contemporary. Innovation and refinement. Craftsmanship and function. Confidence and luxury.